Interview: Restaurateur Leonel Baizan of TAQUERIA CONDESA

Restaurateur Leonel Baizan, originally from the Hell’s Kitchen neighborhood of New York City, grew up deeply immersed in his family’s culinary traditions. His mother, Sabela, a native of Puebla, Mexico, began a home-based catering business in the 1980s, and by eight years old, Leonel was selling homemade tacos to neighbors and local soccer teams. After years working alongside his family, Leonel pursued a broader career in hospitality, gaining valuable experience at Gotham Bar & Grill and the New York Restaurant Group. In 2016, he opened Taquería 86 on the Upper West Side, inspired by the 1986 FIFA World Cup in Mexico. Leonel's latest venture, Taquería Condesa, draws inspiration from Mexico City’s stylish Condesa neighborhood and brings Leonel’s hospitality journey full circle. In the Hell’s Kitchen neighborhood where he was born, Leonel continues to bring his family’s culinary heritage to life. 

Broadwayworld had the pleasure of interviewing Leonel Baizan about his background, career and Taquería Condesa. 

What was your earliest interest in cooking?

Since I was a kid, I loved being in the kitchen with my mom. She’s always been an incredible cook, and some of my earliest memories are of waking up to the smell of handmade tortillas for a Mexican breakfast. For me, the love for a good meal starts at home.

My mom was so generous with food. There were always different dishes, big portions, and a sense of abundance that made everyone feel welcome. Later, we started selling food in our neighborhood, and that’s really where it all began.

These days, I’m not in the kitchen 100% of the time because I’m focused on managing the business, but I deeply trust my kitchen team. Still, I always make sure to check the freshness of the ingredients and the sazón (seasoning). Consistency is everything in a restaurant. 

Who were some of your career mentors?

It’s been a long journey full of ups, downs, and lessons. Over time, I’ve realized that life constantly puts you in front of people who help shape you, sometimes in ways you don’t expect. Some become close friends; others pass through your life more briefly. Either way, I’m always grateful for what they’ve taught me.

I’ve had great bosses, managers, and coworkers who have each left a mark on me. I’ve always tried to be open-minded, not take things personally, but to listen and understand where people are coming from. That’s how you grow, both professionally and personally.

Now, I try to do the same with my own team — to guide them, share what I’ve learned, and hopefully leave a positive impact, the way others did for me.

What culinary styles have influenced your career?

I’m a true Mexican food lover. It’s part of who I am. It was the first cuisine I ever knew, thanks to my mom, and when something is made with love, you never forget it.

But Mexican cuisine is so much more than people realize. It’s incredibly diverse. Each of Mexico’s 32 states has its own flavors, ingredients, and traditions. Even within the same state, you’ll find regional variations that make every dish unique. And then, of course, there’s the food made at home – dishes passed down by our mothers and grandmothers. That’s the kind of food that stays in your heart forever.

What do you consider the most distinguishing features of your work as a restaurateur?

I feel very fortunate to have two incredible restaurants, each with its own personality and story.

Taqueria 86 was my first venture, inspired by the 1986 World Cup in Mexico. It’s a casual, laid-back place, and people immediately connect with the concept. There’s a sense of joy that translates into the food. I wouldn’t say our food is “better” than anyone else’s — there’s room for everyone in this industry — but I do believe what sets us apart is the soul behind it. The concept, the flavors, and the atmosphere all work together, and that’s where the magic happens.

Taqueria Condesa, on the other hand, is our more sophisticated side – chic, sexy, and full of sabor (flavor). The idea was to create a space that reflects how taquerías are evolving, keeping the authenticity of Mexican street food but elevating it with great design and presentation. It’s a place built with love, passion, and a lot of hard work behind the scenes.

What is your greatest challenge as a restaurateur?

New York never stops. It’s a city that moves fast, and you have to stay sharp to keep up. Trends change, people come and go, and the competition is constant, but I try not to let that pressure take over. My focus is simple: serve consistently delicious food, provide warm, friendly service, and create a sense of community. If we can do that every day, we’re doing something right.

What is your favorite meal?

I have to say our birria is one of my favorites. We have a secret recipe that’s truly special. And our handmade tortillas? I could eat them plain with just a pinch of salt. That’s how we do it in Mexico sometimes.

Our salsas are another highlight — they’re fire! Honestly, a simple plate of eggs topped with our different salsas is perfection for me. I love simple food that’s packed with flavor; it doesn’t need to be fancy or expensive.

I’m not big on sweets, but I make an exception for our churros with cajeta (caramel sauce). Every once in a while, I’ll indulge — it’s impossible to resist.

Tell me a little bit about your restaurant for our readers.

At Taqueria Condesa, we serve a variety of tacos that appeal to everyone, including guests with dietary restrictions.

We always recommend starting with our guacamole, unless you’re tempted by the elote or flautas doradas — both are guest favorites. The best thing, though, is to come with a group and order everything to share. That’s when you really experience the full flavor of the menu.

Our Margaritas are on point, including the frozen ones, and we have signature cocktails like the Beso Rojo and the refreshing Avenida Amsterdam – available with either mezcal or tequila. Soon, we’ll be launching our brunch menu, which is something I’m very excited about.

The space itself is inspired by the Condesa neighborhood in Mexico City. It’s an area known for its lush parks, Art Deco architecture, and creative energy. One of the centerpiece details is a beautiful stained glass piece, handcrafted in Mexico City by Pablo Castellanos Studio, who also designed the interior. The stained glass was made there and shipped to New York.

A striking red circular sofa, inspired by the circular Amsterdam Avenue in Condesa, creates a natural flow through the space.

We also played with color — mixing two strong shades deeply tied to Mexico: Rosa Mexicano, a vibrant pink often seen on buildings and taxis in Mexico City, and deep red, symbolizing the spice, warmth, and passion of our cuisine.

Finally, our small but cozy bar features a curved mirrored wall that makes the area feel bright and intimate at the same time — the perfect spot for a cocktail and good conversation.

Taquería Condesa is located at 824 9th Avenue, New York, NY  10019. For menus, hours of operation, and more information, please visit TAQUERÍA CONDESA and call 917.261.5200.

Photo Credit: Pablo Castellanos Studio