BWW Reviews: Quebec City Beckons, a Quick Trip to Old Europe

Quebec City's narrow, winding cobblestone streets are only part of the appeal of this alluring destination-a mere hour-and-change by air from New York City. It's a foodie town teeming with military history and sports events, and regardless of season, you're bound to learn something, and maybe even witness a cycling or ice skating race or two.

Shops are charming, teeming with souvenirs of maple syrup, kitschy art, nostalgic Quebec Nordiques jerseys (the NHL team left for Colorado in 1995, but no matter) and artisan goods. A sprawling food market, Le Marché du Vieux-Port, offers a kaleidoscope of dazzling ingredients that help explain why the city's nouvelle restaurants and cozy bistros have a reputation for fine dining.

This quaint collection of postcard-ready streetscapes is no Disney creation; it's one of the oldest cities in North America. Founded in 1608 by Samuel de Champlain, it's known as the cradle of French civilization in North America. A recent visit here close to autumn and past the high tourist season during the summer months, had its own charm - cobblestone squares, buildings adorned with top-to-bottom murals depicting the lives of residents past and present - despite the occasional downpour.

Centuries-old churches and the fortified wall that encloses the old city speak of Quebec's long history. The city was designated a world heritage site by UNESCO in 1985 and most of the half-million inhabitants speak French. If you don't, no worries, since English is spoken in all tourism sectors, and if you venture beyond the touristy spots, at least make an attempt to sprinkle your speech with "bonjour" and "merci." It will bring smiles and appreciation for the attempt.

If you're a foodie, consider yourself in luck, since this relatively small city abounds in international cuisine as well as traditional Québécois fare. Bring your appetite to charming Le Billig (526 Rue Saint Jean), which offers all manner of delicious crepes-dessert-y- or otherwise. We ordered La Pontivienne, a buckwheat crepe stuffed with bacon and mushrooms in a cheesy cream sauce for lunch. This is not the time to be calorie counting: a visit to Quebec City is a time to go for the gusto of sheer deliciousness.

Another not-to-miss restaurant is the rustic Café Saint-Malo (75 Rue Saint- Paul), whose interior is an eclectic array of assorted paintings and ceramic ware. An expansive fireplace held our propped-up umbrellas and sweet wood smells wafted through the inviting dining room. We opted for classic Quebec fare: duck confit, sweetbreads and grilled salmon. All were delicious.

If you have a special occasion to celebrate, as we did, you couldn't find a better restaurant than Toast! (17 Rue Sault-au-Matelot). It was someone's birthday in our party and there was Toast!, just out the back door of the hip boutique hotel where we stayed, Hotel 71 (71 Rue Saint-Pierre).

Toast! was superb, and perfect for a low-key celebration for two. We were seated in an intimate corner in a smallish room which filled by the time we left. We ordered grilled octopus, halibut that came with a divinely seared scallop, and poached lobster tucked amid fava beans, leeks, chanterelles and layers of flavors and textures.

The birthday boy was feted with a sparkler candle wrapped around an aperitif at the close of the meal. A birthday wouldn't be complete without dessert, and so a cream cheese and white chocolate parfait with citrusy sauce and pistachios was the exclamation point on a memorable meal at Toast!

Quebec City is also a prime destination for the athletically-inclined and the armchair fan. Of course, when you're visiting Quebec, winter sports naturally dominate the colder months, including events featuring ice skaters who whiz downhill on manmade luge-like runs. Our visit coincided with the Grand Prix Cycliste de Quebec. As we wandered the streets of the old city, we watched as world-class cyclists flashed by us crisscrossing the hilly streets while crowds of enthusiastic spectators clapped and yelled encouragement.

Hockey is never far from the minds of the locals and you can hear heated discussions of the latest hockey trade or injured player, just by hanging out in a casual bar or café during the winter season. Even if you don't understand French, you'll understand passionate discourse inspired by the latest hockey game being played on an overhead television. Though the Nordiques are history, Quebec has the Remparts, a junior team (16- to 20-year-olds) in the Quebec Major Junior Hockey League, which has sent hundreds of young players to the NHL.

Shopping is another reason tourists flock to this beautiful city. Art galleries, regional handcrafts, chocolate and even designer clothes and furs can be found within the walls and beyond the Old City. The Musée National des Beaux-Arts du Quebec (Parc des Champs-de-Bataille, a short cab ride west of the Old City) is your place for art, while the Musée de la Civilisation (85 Rue Dalhousie) traces the history of Quebec and parts beyond. Recent exhibits examined the splendors of Paris and the history of video games.

The historic Fairmont Le Château Frontenac is a striking hotel that looms above the city proper. Stroll through the lobby for a taste of its sheer opulence and old-fashioned elegance. This magnificent hotel, inaugurated in 1893, is named for the Count of Frontenac, a notable governor of New France. The central tower was built in 1924 and two historic conferences of 1943 and 1944 were attended by Franklin D. Roosevelt, Winston Churchill and Canadian Prime Minister MacKenzie King.

History buffs will want to tour the Citadelle/Royal 22e Régiment Museum (1 Côte de la Citadelle). The fortress atop the highest hill overlooking a strategic bend in the wide St. Lawrence River, the Citadelle is known as the Gibraltar of America. We joined an enthusiastic young guide for a tour in English that wound around the fortress, from huge cannons to military museum to parade grounds. Military traditions are maintained during ceremonies through the summer months. In addition to French and English, information is also available in German, Spanish, Italian, Mandarin and Japanese.

Quebec City offers something for everyone, and it's a perfect taste of old Europe, without having to cross the Atlantic.

For more information go to: www.quebecregion.com