BWW Reviews: MARTINE'S RIVERHOUSE in New Hope Boasts Food With a View

The Delaware River can be one of the most charming sights in the Northeast, and nowhere is it more scenic than in the area around Bucks County, Pennsylvania (with all due respect to Delaware Water Gap). It's so scenic that a restaurant could set up along it and float by with a merely adequate menu and food preparation, since the draw would be the view. Many restaurants, in fact, do attempt that, not just along the river, but anyplace with a great location. When the food, on the other hand, is at least as good as the view in a place so pleasant, and possibly even better, it's a match made in heaven.

Martine's RiverHouse, at 14 East Ferry Street in New Hope, attempts and in great part achieves exactly that state. Built in 1717 as the original ferry house for the settlement (not yet named New Hope), its location - not Martine's original one - has all the character one could hope for. It has, inside, Colonial period charm and white tablecloths, though it's casual enough to visit while wearing jeans if one chooses, which is essential in a summer tourist town. In front, there are flowers and outdoor tables in a small garden, and in back... in back, there is the river. A terraced deck allows for a view of river, forest, bridges, and other outdoor attractions; it's undeniably scenic and delightful, but then, so is the food.

Martine's boasts a small but well-considered, seasonally rotating, wine list. Both bottles and by-the-glass wines are available, but be sure to check the list to see the current selection. Wait staff are knowledgeable and able to assist with selections if you are in doubt.

Appetizers are varied, ranging from grilled asparagus to a pate served with whole-grain mustard. The grilled asparagus was served with roasted red peppers, Danish blue cheese, Belgian endive, and a balsamic reduction used on other menu items as well that's quite sweet and tangy. The asparagus itself was slender, charred but crunchy, contrasting with soft red pepper and slightly cool, mildly bitter endive tamed by the balsamic reduction. Vegans might consider ordering it without the cheese, but it's a welcome addition otherwise.

The fried oyster appetizer is delightful, the oysters plump and juicy inside a golden crust, with a chipotle ranch mayonnaise that's mildly spiced, just barely hot, delicious but no threat to the digestion or to the more timid among palates. The accompanying horseradish cole slaw is also mild but fresh, with slight bite and great crunch, extremely refreshing.

A cheese board is also available (one hopes that the FDA's abominable ruling on artisan cheeses will not affect the cheese board) that is more than satisfactory as either an appetizer or as a dessert.

Salads are equally varied, both vegetarian and non-vegetarian. With another vegetarian item such as the grilled asparagus they are sufficient for a meal; they are effective as small-plate presentations if desired. There is a highly recommended artichoke salad with tomatoes, Belgian endive and a lemon emulsion. The strawberry salad has not only the berries, but grapes, nestled in baby arugula with shaved red onion and feta, in a rosemary-scented cider dressing. This reviewer recommends a light grind of fresh pepper against the sweetness of the fruit. The caprese (listed as a tomato and mozzarella salad) has thick slabs of beefsteak tomato topped by slices of creamy mozzarella with a sweet balsamic drizzle, with arugula and capers on the side. Red onion provides an additional contrast to the tomatoes and the cheese.

The halibut is properly cooked with a lovely sear; it is accompanied by a pleasantly sweet ramp verjus and a tart, pungent saffron aioli. On the side, the julienned zucchini accompanying the Swiss chard could have used just a moment's more cooking; it was just slightly too cool and crunchy. The duck was medium rare and tender, just slightly fatty around the edge, with a green apple fennel sauce that accentuated the flavor of the duck, A risotto ball containing confit duck burrows under the sliced duck, absorbing the sauce. Other entrees include filet, flatiron steak, salmon (pictured), and venison.

The desserts are more traditional than elegant but are well-considered; the apple cobbler comes out with a hot, soft, buttery crust that soaks up the juices like a sponge; the chocolate mousse is light and creamy but with a semisweet bite to it,

The cheese plate, available as an appetizer/small plate or as dessert, came with three cheeses including a Danish blue cheese, brie, and a smoked gouda; accompaniments included honey-roasted walnuts, grapes, strawberries, and crostini.

Service is unobtrusive but prompt; it is definitely casual, but staff is knowledgeable. Special dietary requests are accommodated (however, one may not trust the matter of cross-contamination if gluten-free dishes are required). No entrees on the menu are vegetarian, including the pasta, but a call in advance can settle the matter easily if the small plates on the menu, mentioned above, are insufficient.

When making reservations, if attending Bucks County Playhouse after dining, it is helpful to notify them of the fact so that dishes can be expedited; the theatre is directly across the street, so making sure that diners do not miss the curtain is standard for Martine's.

Martine's does have a full bar, as well as the wine list, so cocktails can be accommodated, or dropping in for drinks and appetizers on the way to an event can be arranged. For information and the menu, visit martinesriverhouserestaurant.com, or call 215-862-2966 for reservations.