BWW Reviews: Historic Boston, a City for All Seasons

Boston, one of the loveliest cities in the Northeast, is home to world-class museums, cultural attractions and historical sites. Throw into that mix a delightful array of diverse cuisine, sports events and stellar hotels and you'll understand why millions of visitors make multiple visits here. There's simply too much to see and do for one weekend or even week.

But before making a hotel reservation to visit Boston, check the collegiate calendars. There are scores of colleges throughout the city proper (not to mention Cambridge) and all have parents'

weekends, sports events and academic activities that attract hordes of visitors.

Time your visit right and you'll avoid bumping into clusters of sophomores on Boston Common or dodging hordes of visiting parents at Faneuil Hall.

Do your due diligence and you will find hoteliers eager to book rooms and restaurants, museums and exhibitions delightfully uncrowded. When we visited recently from New York, there was a plethora of hotel choices available and we were thrilled to stay at the luxurious Mandarin Oriental on Boylston Street in Back Bay. Designed with sophistication and artistry, this hotel is a sheer delight of understated elegance. The Asian-inspired décor is complemented by an assortment of artwork in the halls and lobby.

This Mandarin Oriental has an ample 148 guest rooms, and a 16,000-square- foot Forbes Five-Star Spa, one of the most sumptuous I've ever experienced. I couldn't resist having a facial which turned out to be so new it hadn't yet been added to the menu. The Rose Infinity Facial took 80 minutes and is inspired by ancient traditions, modern techniques and a holistic approach to healing and balancing body, mind and spirit. Kenny's masterly fingers applied a variety of soothing lotions to my face; he used cold stones to massage my temple and cheeks. It was sublime.

When I had time to "recover" from my blissed-out state, it was time for dinner. Off we went to the nearby Turner Fisheries, whose clam chowder had been voted "best of" by Boston Magazine. Seafood choices are your best bet, but if clam chowder doesn't appeal, try the butternut squash soup. And if you happen to have a birthday celebrant in your mix, she may even be feted with a candle in an apple cobbler and a hearty round of "Happy Birthday."

Boston, the center of the early American universe, will appeal to history buffs, outdoors enthusiasts, epicureans and museum lovers. From the Museum of Fine Arts to the New England Aquarium, there are exhibits, attractions and museums to satisfy every predilection. Boston is a great walking city and a stroll through the Boston Common, the country's oldest public park, is a wonderful way to spend time while the weather is still cooperative. If you have young children, the nearly 50 acres of the Common is a terrific place for them to let off steam and chase squirrels (but not too closely). During warmer months you can rent one of the famed swan boats on the Public Garden Lagoon and paddle your way leisurely around the park.

Now that you've burned up calories chasing those squirrels, head to the North End waterfront for Aragosta Bar and Bistro in the Fairmont Hotel (another fabulous place to stay). Aragosta, on Battery Wharf adjacent to the U.S. Coast Guard base, is simply beautiful, with an outdoor terrace and views of Boston Harbor that you'll take home in your mind's eye. With influences from Marseille to Genoa, the contemporary Mediterranean cuisine (by award-winning Chef Graham Lockwood) offers handmade pasta, prime meat and New England seafood (of course). The open kitchen makes it fun to watch the chef prepare food, and we appreciated sampling the aromas even of food headed for other tables.

Local farm-raised ingredients are used in each dish and we sampled delicious Wellfleet oysters, lobster bisque, lobster sliders, scrumptious scallops, watermelon radish and a delightfully refreshing iced tea made of ingredients grown in Hawaii. Our server, Loredana, made certain everything was to our satisfaction. It was.

After lunch, we thought about going to the JFK Presidential Library and Museum or the Museum of Science or the Old State House. Maybe a sight-seeing tour, or a jaunt to Cambridge. But we opted for a stroll to Faneuil Hall, America's first open marketplace and the site of international buskers, light shows and great little shops to discover. We wended our way into a most unusual place for a drink: the Frost Ice Bar. Maybe having a drink in a bar made of ice doesn't appeal to you in the heart of winter. But this is a place not to be missed.

New England's only indoor ice bar is a year-round multi-sensory experience where you can imbibe delicious cocktails served in glasses made of ice while sitting atop an ice swan (like the swan boats, get it?). After you stow your gear, you'll be outfitted in a purplish poncho with a fringed hoodie. Stretchy, knitted gloves are part of the ensemble (they don't keep you warm, though) and the atmosphere is simply over-the-top and fun. It's not a huge space, but the temperature is a chilly 21 degrees Fahrenheit, so you'll want to move around and take pictures of one another looking goofy and having fun. One drink will probably be enough and it will feel positively balmy once you get back outdoors, even in winter.

Of course we were hungry again and eager to discover an Italian restaurant close to the Mandarin Oriental. A quick check of Yelp produced an excellent result: Piattini, meaning small plates. This is a keeper restaurant: a comfortable room with an energetic vibe where each dish outshone the one before.

Spinach fettuccine was delicious, as was fusilli with mushrooms. Small plates of lobster ravioli, eggplant with smoked mozzarella and two kinds of calamari satisfied all. Arms and forks crossed around the table as five of us sampled everything. We walked away with doggy bags of leftovers that didn't make it to the next day. And we added our own rave on Yelp-this is a must for those who appreciate deliciousness.

The next day we ventured to the Museum of Fine Art, where a spectacular exhibit of John Singer Sargent's watercolors was on display. This is a stunning exhibit (through January 20) and we were able to enjoy it without crowds. If you miss it, not to worry, the permanent exhibit has plenty of notables year-round.

Boston's official website for visitors will answer any questions you may have about details of attractions, accommodations, restaurants and seasonal events. As long as you avoid the teeming collegiate crowds, you're sure to have a wonderful time.