Chef Spotlight: Executive Chef Israel Reyes of BLACKBARN RESTAURANT in NoMad

BLACKBARN, Chef John Doherty’s celebrated NoMad restaurant above Madison Square Park, renowned for its seasonal, locally sourced farm-to-table New American cuisine, has announced the appointment of Chef Israel Reyes as its new Executive Chef. 

Hand-picked by Doherty to run his multiple kitchens, Chef Reyes has been a member of the BLACKBARN culinary team since 2021. Reyes rose through the ranks, from sous chef and executive sous, before taking the helm of the kitchen. He brings a distinct culinary point of view — rooted in his Mexican heritage and sharpened by years of professional experience and a strong work ethic — to support Chef Doherty and the BLACKBARN team in executing the restaurant's extensive calendar of events and functions. 

Before joining the BLACKBARN team, Chef Reyes was born and raised in Puebla, Mexico, where his father ran the family farm raising dairy cows, goats and chickens and mother tended to the corn, fava beans and English peas she transformed into early culinary memories. When he moved to the United States, at the age of 15, he began working in restaurants as a means of survival, starting as a dishwasher. Over time, his work evolved from a job into a passion and, ultimately, his vocation. After years of working successfully through the New York restaurant scene, he rose through the ranks before arriving at BLACKBARN in 2021 and he is ready for this new leadership position as well. 

What was your earliest interest in cooking?

My earliest memories of cooking come from my family’s farm in Puebla, Mexico, where I grew up, and where farm-to-table cooking was a way of life. My father raised cattle, goats and chickens and grew crops like fava beans and corn, and my mother transformed those humble ingredients into memorable dishes.

Who were some of your career mentors?  

Of course, my mom was my first cooking mentor. The recipes she made for our family still inspire my cooking today, and a few of them have made their way onto the menu at BLACKBARN. At every stop in my career, I’ve stayed curious and tried to learn as much as I could. From shucking oysters and preparing sushi to handling the pressure of the line during a busy service and, eventually, leading a team, each role taught me something I still carry with me. Since I joined BLACKBARN, Chef John Doherty’s mentorship has been instrumental in my growth as a chef. In particular, he has helped me refine my technique, explore my capabilities, and find the confidence to put my stamp on our menu.

What culinary styles have influenced your career?  

I’ve always gravitated towards cuisines and preparations that demand precision, speed, and consistency. I started at Docks as an oyster shucker and won three oyster shucking competitions on the restaurant’s behalf. I eventually moved to the cold bar, where I learned the art of sushi making. The attention to detail and precision that tradition requires fueled my culinary passion for cooking. Now at BLACKBARN, I prepare Chef Doherty’s recipes every night for a loyal following of guests who expect the dishes they know and love to be executed with the quality that has made the restaurant a favorite for over ten years. In my new role, I look forward to working with Chef Doherty to infuse some of the flavors I grew up with on my parents’ farm to the menu and to create new favorites, too.

What do you consider the most distinguishing features of your work as a chef?  

When I first moved to the U.S., I entered the restaurant industry as a dishwasher. From that first job on, I’ve wanted to keep learning and growing, and that tenacity helped me build my skills, station by station. My commitment to learning still fuels my passion for this industry, and I relish the moments when my skills are tested, like executing our Cheese Souffle every night with the precision and speed it demands.

What are your favorite meals?

At BLACKBARN, my favorites are the dishes that let me share the cooking I grew up with. The Chicken Fricasse on our Tavern menu is inspired by my mother’s cooking from my childhood. It started as a family meal for our staff and was such a hit that we refined it and added it to the menu. Our Main Dining Room dinner menu also features the Grapefruit-Brined Habanero Pork Chop, made with my mother’s mole recipe.

Tell me a little bit about your restaurant for our readers.

BLACKBARN is Chef John Doherty's farm-to-table New American restaurant in NoMad, looking onto Madison Square Park. Chef Doherty and I share a commitment to thoughtfully sourced ingredients and refined technique, and our menu celebrates the best of each season. Inside, modern farmhouse decor and warm, personal hospitality make it a place our guests want to come back to.

BLACKBARN is located at 19 East 26th Street, New York, NY 10010. For more information, menus, and hours of operation, please visit Farm-to-Table Dining in NYC’s Madison Square Park and call 212.265.5959.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of BLACKBARN