AMERICAN MASTERS 'Chefs Flight' Continues with Jacques Pepin: The Art of Craft on PBS, 5/26
The culinary journey of AMERICAN MASTERS "Chefs Flight" - four documentaries on legendary chefs - continues with a profile on Jacques Pépin, a young immigrant with movie-star looks and a charming Gallic accent, who elevated essential kitchen techniques to an art form to become one of America's most beloved food icons.
The new documentary, Jacques Pépin: THE ART OF Craft, produced and directed by Peter L. Stein and narrated by Stanley Tucci, premieres nationally Friday, May 26 at 9 p.m. ETon PBS as part of the 31st season of AMERICAN MASTERS (check local listings). It will be paired with an encore presentation of AMERICAN MASTERS - Alice Waters and Her Delicious Revolution at 10 p.m. Preceding Pépin by one week, a new film about James Beard, AMERICAN MASTERS - James Beard: America's First Foodie, and an encore presentation about Julia Child,American Masters - Julia! America's Favorite Chef air on Friday, May 19 at 9 p.m. ET and 10 p.m. ET, respectively.
"Jacques Pépin really was the first person to land on the American scene and say technique matters, craft matters," says journalist Fareed Zakaria.
Pépin, the second of three sons, was born in 1935 in Bourg-en-Bresse, near Lyon. The film traces Pépin's journey from his childhood in the countryside of wartime France, where his family's tradition of entrepreneurial women running homegrown restaurants propelled him into an early culinary career.
At the age of 13, Pépin leaves home to begin a formal apprenticeship at the distinguished Grand Hôtel de l'Europe. His first break comes at 16, when, as the sole chef, he cooks the fireman's banquet in the alpine resort town of Bellegarde, a success that results in his first newspaper photo op. "I start to realize that I could put some of myself in the food. It didn't have to be exactly the way my mother wanted it to be," says Pépin, recalling this pivotal moment in his life.
Nearly 17, Pépin moves to Paris, initially without a job, and eventually works at dozens of restaurants learning about classical cooking. He trains under Lucien Diat at the Hotel Plaza Athénée where the emphasis is on technique. Four years later, he is drafted into the Navy, but because his older brother is already on the front, Pépin is assigned to stay in Paris as a cook at Navy headquarters. Now an accomplished chef, he is assigned to create special dinners for the top brass and becomes the personal chef for three French heads of state, including Charles de Gaulle. But Pépin understands that in the late 1950s, the cook, even if "first chef," is really at the bottom of the social scale and viewed as the help. Not content cooking in French palaces, Pépin decides to move to the United States in 1959.
"I was excited about going abroad, by learning a new language," says Pépin. "America was a golden fleece, you know, it was the Promised Land for many people after the war, and me included."
In New York, Pépin lands a job at Le Pavillon, the most influential French restaurant in the country, and soon meets the three people he calls the "Trinity of Cooking": Craig Claiborne, food editor of The New York Times; Beard; Julia Child. In later years, he partners with Child on a television series, Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home, for which he and Child win a Daytime Emmy in 2001.
While at Le Pavillon, Pépin is courted for the position of "first chef" in the new KENNEDY White House, a position he turns down. Instead, he goes to work in the kitchens of Howard Johnson's hotel and restaurant chain (1960-70) where he learns about mass production, marketing, food chemistry, and American popular food.
In 1974, a near fatal car accident is the catalyst that pushes Pépin's life in a different direction as writer, teacher, and ultimately a media star. With his early landmark books on the fundamentals of culinary craft, La Technique (1976) and La Methôde (1978), and television shows, Pépin ushers in a new era in American food culture.
An American citizen for more than half a century, at age 81, Pépin continues to crisscross the country teaching, cooking, speaking, consulting, and enjoying the celebrity generated by 14 television shows, nearly 30 cookbooks, and accolades including the French Legion of Honor, France's highest honor.
Interviews with Pépin's wife Gloria and daughter Claudine, culinary stars and media personalities including José Andrés, Daniel Boulud, Anthony Bourdain, Tom Colicchio, Rachael Ray, Marcus Samuelsson, and Fareed Zakaria, offer insights about the man, who with his catchphrase "happy cooking" has always emphasized honesty of ingredients, simplicity of approach, and a joy for sharing food with loved ones.
"You look at Julia Child and she was introducing you to a world around food and the dishes themselves," says Dana Cowin, former editor-in-chief, Food and Wine. "But what Jacques did was he deconstructed how to do it so that you could feel empowered. It's the greatest novel of empowerment, but it happens to be a cookbook."
The film is produced and directed by Peter L. Stein, a Peabody Award-winning documentary filmmaker who first started working with Pépin in 1989 as producer of what became Pépin's landmark public television series Today's Gourmet, and who went on to oversee seven seasons of cooking programs with Pépin in the 1990s. "Coming back into Jacques' LIFE AFTER all these years to help tell his remarkable story has been a real privilege," says Stein, "Especially now, in our food- and chef-crazed culture, to be able to reflect back and see his career as pivotal in transforming the way America cooks, eats, and appreciates the role of the chef in America."