BWW Reviews: DONOHUE'S STEAKHOUSE in NYC, Time-Honored Excellence

Tradition runs deep at Donohue's, the Irish steakhouse that has offered the best in chops and seafood for the more than 60 years. Under the stewardship of three generations of Donohues, the Lexington Avenue bar and restaurant has built up a clientele of nearby residents--many of whom have returned decade after decade, some of whom have staked out favorite booths. And no wonder. The portions are ample, and the furnishings include nautical paintings, comfortable black vinyl seats, and a chalkboard bearing the day's specials. It all transports you back to an earlier time--the magnificently dusky Manhattan of the 1960s, perhaps--but then again, hearty food and intimate settings will always be in style.

The strategy at Donohue's, is both straightforward and winning: classic dishes done right, without needless frills, and with quality that speaks for itself. House favorites include the London broil, the fish fillets, and especially the pork chops. I ordered the last of these on my most recent visit, and was served two thick cuts of meat, neither weighted down with glazes or garnishes. The real pleasure was in the texture: both chops were cooked medium-well, so that the edges were roasted and blackened just enough to complement the robust meat at each chop's center. All of this was served with smooth applesauce and a flawless baked potato. In other contexts, you might take these accompaniments for granted; here, because the food is so elemental--and so good--you notice how well the firm pork, the subtle applesauce, and the sour cream on that potato balance one another out.

Where drinks and desserts are concerned, Donohue's once again favors the classic, the fundamental, the timeless. The steakhouse is a favorite of Manhattan and Martini enthusiasts, and the signature desserts are cheesecake, apple pie, and substantial servings of mint chocolate chip ice cream. And in none of these cases does Donohue's fall in with culinary fads: there aren't any oddball spices in the cheesecake, or any bizarre vodka flavors in the Martinis, or any kale and quinoa anywhere. Even the well-diced house salad, with its cherry tomatoes, plays out as a satisfying and self-sufficient recipe. You can leave the steakhouse-fusion nonsense to "experimental" chefs and fast food conglomerates, because the food at Donohue's rises above it all. This steakhouse is the real thing.

Donohue's Steak House is located at 845 Lexington Avenue (At 63rd Street on the Upper East Side) New York, NY 10065. Call them at (212) 744-0938.

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