Review: FOOD, Finborough Theatre

Owners of a passed-down takeaway joint on an Australian highway, sisters Elma (Emma Playfair) and Nancy's (Lily Newbury-Freeman) unstable relationship is challenged on a daily basis between running the shop and dealing with their past. When they decide to turn it into a proper restaurant and hire the mysterious traveller Hakan (Scott Karim), life take an unexpected turn.

In its first premiere outside the Australian borders, Food is a small-town story with a dark side. Written by Steve Rodgers, the play's peculiarity lies in its narrative: the characters are both actors and spectators of their own adventure, breaking the fourth wall and recounting the facts using third-person pronouns.

As directed by CressIda Brown, the piece is simple but poignant. Its traverse staging and rather bare vibe give it a rundown look: designer Hannah Wolfe opts for only two ladders, an oven, a chest freezer and a fryer as props. The three actors move the items around during the play, at times giving it a cluttered atmosphere, other times just covering the furniture or scattering it about.

Playfair and Newbury-Freeman convey the love and regret of an abandoned sisterhood which comes together again after years of loss. They clearly navigate the flashbacks and moments when they act as narrator, giving a meticulous delivery. Their childhood squabbles and teenage bond are permeated by Elma's envy, which is still present.

As the Turkish Hakan, Karim's is a more noticeably nervous but enjoyable performance. His comic timing and lighthearted attitude bring an airy atmosphere to the otherwise emotion-heavy piece. His relationship with the audience is more interesting than the one with the two women, established from his first appearance as he entertains and flirts with us.

A homely story sprinkled with sex, love, food and family issues, Food struggles to avoid stereotype, but at its best is a celebration of sisterhood, reunion and nourishment.

Food runs at Finborough Theatre until 15 July

Photo credit: Arabella Neale

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