BWW Reviews: Long Branch Brings the High Life to the NJ Shore

A visit to Long Branch doesn't always feel like a visit to the Jersey Shore. But that isn't a bad thing by any means. With its sunken palm trees, beachside promenade, and carefully integrated Pier Village shopping center, Long Branch can look a lot like Palm Beach. Look closer, and you'll discover bars and cafes that would be right at home in Mid Manhattan.

In short, Long Branch offers a scintillatingly upscale leisure and dining experience. A fair amount of the credit goes to Mayor Adam Schneider, who has been described as the "architect of the era that saw Long Branch transition from a burned down fishing pier" to "a high end shopping and eating district bounded by beachfront high-rises." Schneider and his government colleagues have created an environment where smart smaller businesses could feel at home; the rest of the credit goes to the entrepreneurs, chefs, and entertainers who make every trip to Long Branch worth remembering.

One of the most prominent sights on the Long Branch skyline is the Ocean Place Resort and Spa. Ocean Place guests have the benefit of chair and umbrella services if they want to hit the beach, and massage rooms if they want to stay indoors. But even if you aren't a hotel guest, you can still enjoy the Ocean Place Tiki Bar. Order original cocktails such as the "Jersey Sweet Tea", "Purple Haze", and "Liquid Key Lime Pie", all in generous portions and served (just in case it's hot out) with plenty of ice.

Ocean Place also offers a grill menu at the Ocean View Terrace. And if you walk a few minutes north, you'll find another Long Branch restaurant that combines the casual and the upscale in just the right proportions: Rooney's Oceanfront Restaurant. For the past nineteen years, Rooney's has built up a clientele of Long Branch regulars and out-of-town visitors. After Hurricane Sandy hit, the restaurant staff moved swiftly to get back to business. "We were in full recovery mode from the start," notes longtime manager Darrell Wordelmann. Today, signs of the superstorm are nowhere to be seen, and guests can either enjoy the splendid, spacious indoor dining area or the comfortable outdoor tables.

Rooney's features an outstanding raw bar and puts an awe-inspiring spin on the jumbo shrimp cocktail. Another of the restaurant's must try-dishes-The Angry Lobster-is a stroke of culinary genius, or madness, or both. The menu describes it as a "two pound lobster pan roasted in its original shell finished in an olive oil and roasted garlic sauce," sprinkled with basil and pepper flakes, and served alongside broccoli rabe and toasted raisin bread. Finishing an Angry Lobster on your own is quite a feat, but executive chef Greg Weightman and the rest of the Rooney's kitchen staff have made sure that every bite is worth it. If, by some miracle, you're still hungry, the signature sun-dried tomato hummus and warm pita chips make a great snack.

Another Long Branch restaurant that has found its niche is Indulge. The interior is decorated in the kind of blacks, whites, and carefully chosen textures that you'll find in many high-end New York bars. Yet Indulge is an excellent place to order a few appetizers (including their house specialty, the Jack d Chicken Slider), watch the game, and get to know the staff. They also make some expertly concocted cocktails using everything from chilled spirits to handheld applewood-smoker machines. This isn't all for show; one of Indulge's special inventions, the Campfire Manhattan, is among the best mixed drinks I've ever had. All this to recommend it, and Indulge isn't even a year old.

But drive a few minutes south of Pier Village, and you'll find Max's Famous Hot Dogs-which that bills itself as "a Jersey Shore tradition." For decades, Max's has been owned and operated by the Maybaum family, and since 1984 the business has occupied its current, delightfully spacious quarters at Matilda Terrace. The hot dogs themselves are gigantic, tender, and served well done. Though Long Branch has changed much over the years, it's good to know that one of the town's mainstay eateries is still doing what it does best.

Tiki Bar Photo Credit: Courtesy of Ocean Place