Fogo de Chão: What's a Salad Bar Like You Doing in a Meat Paradise Like This?

You don't go to a Brazilian steakhouse, or churrascaria, with great expectations of finding a memorable salad or fresh veggies. A steakhouse is a carnivore-centric world, after all. So imagine my surprise when I dined at Manhattan's Fogo de Chão, and found the best salad bar I've ever seen. It was one of the many surprises during our unhurried dining experience, my first time in a churrascaria.

Upon entering this spacious establishment, you will be enveloped in the spirit of Laçador, the official symbol of Brazilian gauchos (cowboys) in Porto Alegre. A bas relief statue of Laçador presides on one wall, traditionally garbed with lasso in hand. ­Brazilian cherry wood is used throughout and creates a warm, inviting interior. Diners waiting to be seated downstairs can sit here and enjoy a drink. Lighting is flattering and the décor modern.

Manhattan's Fogo, part of a successful chain of restaurants in South and North America, is celebrating its first anniversary in December. It not only offers 16 fire-roasted cuts of meat, but also has a gigantic salad bar of 40-plus items. Yes, you'll find typical salad bar fixings, but you'll also choose from smoked salmon, Italian deli meat, a hollowed-out parmesan cheese wheel filled with chunks of 2-year-old aged parmesan, jumbo asparagus, green olives stuffed with pimentos, chickpeas, hearts of palm, chicken salad, shitake mushrooms and quinoa, edamame and roasted corn salad.The salad bar is toward the back of the lower level room, and gaucho servers thread their way around the tables. Private banquet rooms are back here, too.

A little history: The story of Fogo begins in the mountainous countryside of Rio Grande do Sul, in southern Brazil, where its founders, two sets of brothers, were born. The brothers were immersed in the centuries-old gaucho culture, a blend of traditions from European immigrants and Brazilian natives. An essential element of this culture is churrasco, the gaucho way of roasting meats over open fire pits. (Fogo de Chão translates to "ground fire.") In 1975 the first Fogo opened in Porto Alegre, combining the culinary traditions with outstanding customer service. In 1998, Fogo moved north, with a restaurant in Dallas.

Now that you've got that under your belt, it's time for the main attraction: meat. When we were seated at our table, we were greeted by our server Jon. He took our drink orders-the signature cocktail, Fogo Caipirinha, made with silver cachaca, fresh lime and cane sugar, was very, very potent. My husband chose a red wine (an Argentine Malbec) and was impressed by the wine selection. A temperature-controlled upstairs wine room contains scores of bottles. There's also a separate bar with its own kitchen on this floor.

At our table were two round coasters-one side green with the words: "Yes Please," the flip side red, with the words "No Thank You." A clever system for cueing the gaucho servers to either bring more meat, or hold off. It also gives you a chance to let your belt out a notch (or two). Jon informed us that a team of diligent gauchos would anticipate our every meat-centric need.

Speaking of belts, the servers are decked out in traditional knee-length gaucho pants, wide leather belts with pockets to store knives, and black leather boots. Servers wore blue, logo-ed long-sleeve shirts and vests, with red scarves around the neck.

I headed for the salad bar and took generous helpings of the asparagus (delicious and crunchy), sweet/spicy peppers, roasted eggplant and spinach. Don't forget to sample the ethereal creamy basil dressing. By the time I returned to our table, my hubby was working on a lamb chop, sheepishly admitting he couldn't wait. Forgiven. Between chews, excited observations like "Omigod!" "Fantastic," "A meat orgy." bubbled forth. He kept his coaster green side up for quite some time.

The servers weaved around the tables in a graceful ballet, stopping or staying away depending on how the coasters were flipped. We tried bottom sirloin, filet mignon wrapped in bacon (or without), parmesan-encrusted pork loin filets, sausage, prime sirloin, top sirloin, and rib eye. The meat was juicy and flavorful, with just the right zing of seasoning. Every so often there would be a lull in conversation in the packed room, with only the sound of utensils on plates.

The cutlery was also unique-very weighted and branded-and on your right you will find a mini-tong. Jon explained that when the gauchos come to your table and expertly slice your beef, you use the tongs to gently escort the meat from his knife to your plate.

And just in case we felt deprived, a basket of cheese bread and a trio of sides were brought to our table-caramelized bananas, mashed potatoes and crispy polenta. If you finish one of the sides-say, in this case, the caramelized bananas- a back-up plate will be swiftly deposited.

Just as we were ready to leave, another surprise-Jon returned with a platter of desserts. There was homemade flan, chocolate molten cake with ice cream, key lime pie with graham cracker crust, a cake with three kinds of milk-evaporated, condensed and whole-turtle cheese cake, triple layer chocolate mousse cake, vanilla bean crème brûlée, fresh papaya cream (or strawberry), and New York cheese cake. We half expected a meat smoothie.

Against our better judgment we went for the three-milk (tres leches) cake and crème brûlée. Both ridiculously delicious, and the coffee was outstanding.

When you're in the mood for a hearty helping of churrasco steak (or a sumptuous endless salad), Fogo's is the go-to place.

Fogo de Chao is at 40 West 53rd Street. Lunch is $39.50 (salad bar only $24.50) M-F 11:30-3pm;

Dinner is $59.50 (salad bar $28.50) M-F 5:30-11 pm; Saturday 2-11 pm; Sunday 2-10 pm.

Children 6 and under are free; 7-12 half-price. 212-969-9980