BWW Preview: SURYA Returns to the West Village in NYC
For more than a decade, chef/owner Lala Sharma's Surya was a beloved restaurant in the West Village, offering sophisticated Indian cuisine. When it closed several years ago, it left a noticeable gap in the neighborhood. In the intervening years, Sharma and his family-owned and operated restaurants developed a devoted following at Swagat and Savoury on the Upper West Side.
But now, Surya is back on Bleecker Street in a beautiful new space-with an exciting new concept for a new generation. Sharma and his sons-Abishek Sharma and Abim Sharma-along with their lifelong friend, co-owner Sandeep Singh, offer a taste of the rich, deep flavors of India but with a light and healthy touch.
The décor of the new restaurant is casual and inviting-with warm hues of espresso wood, gold walls covered with vintage photographs, and a granite bar surrounded by military-style bar stools, lit with Edison bulbs.
Though the menu looks to the past for inspiration-including bringing back favorite signature dishes from the original Surya-Chef Lala and his team look to the future for their cooking methods, techniques and ingredients. The food is delicately seasoned and beautifully spiced with exciting flavor profiles, while still being homey and comforting.
An ideal meal at Surya begins with a crispy, savory treat: Colonial Street Chaats, inspired by popular street food, elevated with lighter, healthier ingredients. For example, Spinach Palak Moong Chaat, designed to be eaten out of hand, are crisp crackers made from batter-dipped flash-fried spinach, layered with sprouted lentils, lemon, onion, and tomatoes-a single bite includes crunch, tang, freshness, leaving an exciting tingle on the palate. Bombay Bhel Puri, popular on the beaches in what is now Mumbai is refreshing and light, composed of rice crisps, onions, tomatoes, cilantro and tamarind. Other starters include Onion Bhaija-onion fritter with a chickpea flour batter orSavoury Scallops--pan-sauteed with sweet-tangy tamarind-coconut sauce.
Continue with signature dishes (served as composed plates with sides of vegetables and rice) such as Dalcha Machchi, salmon tikka (cooked in the tandoor) with sprouted lentils, in a lovely light sauce flavored with turmeric, bay leaf, mustard seed and curry leaves and tantalizing Calicut Pepper Chicken with green chilies, ginger and curry leaves, and warm and wonderful Masaledar Chaaps, a generous portion of melt-in-your mouth tender lamb chops marinated in red wine, yogurt, ginger and spices. British-influenced mains include Malabar Pappas, shrimp in spicy coconut sauce with curry leaf and tamarind and Railway Chicken Curry, a homey, comforting, simple chicken, made with garam masala spices, tomato and onion, while Maharaja Shahi Korma, is a royal dish, made for princes, with a creamy, almond-based, saffron sauce.