Photo Coverage: Marni 2013 Winter Edition
Clothing suited for the needs and speed of the concrete jungle. A military attitude filtered through a feminine sensibility. Girls that dress like boys. Marni Winter Edition 2013 is urban and tough.
Precision replaces the need for decoration. The collection is like a system of elements that can be assembled and reassembled according to one's own whims. The call for individual interpretation puts the wearer to the fore.
The essentials look like they were subtracted from a man's wardrobe: the double breasted blazer and coat; slouchy trousers; the parka; the duffle-coat. Sportswear adds a layer of functionalism, or is sliced into utilitarian detail: a scarf-hood; deep pockets. The zip-up anorak is the contemporary equivalent of an army uniform.
Strictness is subverted through contrasts of tailored and deconstructed, masculine and feminine. Boyish shirts are worn under suits; pleated skirts are paired with sporty blousons; a pair of suit sleeves is attached to a crinkled lining dress; printed sweatshirt tops and skirts have an easy sophistication. Tops foil covered sheepskin jackets and metallic leather pieces are a deliberately outré touch. Fur is used with graphic sensibility and the function to provide warmth: a little cape, a collar, a gilet.
Prints are dogstooth, bold stripes, overblown florals as ambiguous as a bleach splash. The colour palette is feminine but moody: tones of burgundy, petrol, charcoal and midnight blue are accented with notes of pink, mustard and metallic flashes of copper and gold. Fabrics are firm: twisted wool, technical polyester, cotton gabardine. Utilitarian accessories include double-strap boots, fringed loafers, chelsea boots and then oversized totes and clutches with embossed dogstooth motifs. Elasticated belts worn around the waist are a quick yet feminine accent.