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BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise

BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
The Idyllic Islands and Majestic Shores of Croatia and Montenegro

An Adriatic music cruise with the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center, June 20-27

Reported by David Finckel, cellist and Artistic Director of the Society

The journeys organized by Travel Dynamics combine first-class accommodations and stimulating sight-seeing with intimate chamber music performances in extraordinary locations. As co-Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society, along with my wife, the pianist Wu Han, we program the concerts and select additional musicians from the Society's artist roster to join us as collaborators. The passengers include music lovers who join the cruises through two of our prominent chamber music institutions New York's Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center, and Silicon Valley's Music@Menlo. Joining us on this adventure were Suzanne Davidson and Edward Sweeney, the executive directors of each organization respectively, as well as violinists Kristin Lee and Arnaud Sussmann, two of the most exciting young performers on the classical music scene today.

The following blog is my personal diary of the tour; the photographs were taken by me and our daughter Lilian, a college sophomore with professional photographic experience. I hope you enjoy it.

-David Finckel

Tuesday-Wednesday, June 17-18

Following CMS's return from the Dresden Music Festival, and a subsequent busy week in New York that included recitals in Rockport, Massachusetts and Albuquerque, New Mexico, Wu Han and I, joined by our daughter Lilian, stepped on a plane bound for Brussels to connect to a flight that has always been our favorite: one that lands in Venice.

Straining for views of the magnificent city from the plane window, it was difficult to contain our excitement at the coming CMS cruise, the seventh organized by our wonderful partner Travel Dynamics. Our look of relief and anticipation is more than obvious aboard the water taxi to the Hotel Saturnia.

BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
DFWH Taxi


This cruise would take us from Venice along the Dalmatian coast on the Adriatic, stopping at stunning islands and ports along the way to our final destination, the historic Croatian city of Dubrovnik. Joining us would be a group of travelers comprised of friends of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center, of Music@Menlo, and others from Vanderbilt University and the National Trust for Historic Preservation.

Our tour consisted mostly of stops in the Republic of Croatia, now a boomerang-shaped country in the heart of central Europe with a population of 4.2 million. Its west arm, which stretches down the Adriatic coast for 3,600 miles, is dotted with inlets, reefs, and 1185 islands, of which 47 are inhabited. The east arm (which we did not visit) is landlocked, reaching far to the east, past the country's central capital of Zagreb.

Croatia's complex history dates back to the 7th century, with the Kingdom of Croatia beginning in the 10th century and lasting two hundred years. Subsequently controlled by Hungarians, Habsburg rulers and governed by alliances with its neighboring states, Croatia joined the socialist state of Yugoslavia after World War II. That arrangement began to crumble when Croatia held its own parliamentary elections and declared independence in 1991, leading to the four-year Croatian War of Independence (more on this later).

Other countries we visited included Bosnia-Herzegovina (Mostar) and Montenegro (Kotor), but only for the briefest of stops.

Our tour program's flirtation with Venice - prior to embarkation - was no more than a taste, but we and few enthusiastic friends and colleagues arrived several days early in Venice to unwind and enjoy the one-of-a-kind environment. A pre-dinner Rialto Bridge photo includes Music@Menlo board member Ann Bowers and Patricia Foster and Chamber Music Society Executive Director Suzanne Davidson.

BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Rialto Bridge Group

Of course, a large part of our excitement (as is normal for musicians) was over the food we were about to eat. Italian and Chinese food top our list of favorite cuisines and our favorite restaurant in Venice, Trattoria alla Rivetta (a hangout for both tourists and gondoliers) did not fail to please during our four (!) visits there in two days. Rivetta is just steps east of St. Mark's square, on the street which offers this iconic view of the Bridge of Sighs, the infamous passageway over the Rio di Palazzo which connects the Doge's Palace with the New Prison.

BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Bridge of Sighs
BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Rivetta

The food at Rivetta is incredible:

BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Spaghetti Vongole
BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Soft Shell Crabs
BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Squid Ink Pasta
BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Tiramisu

Walking the streets and canals of Venice is one of most continually captivating visual experiences to be found anywhere. The variety of beautiful scenes, and people from everywhere enjoying themselves, are both inspiring and rejuvenating to witness.

BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Gondola View
BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Canal Scene
BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Church & Restaurant
BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Scallops
BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Friends

Friday, June 20

Our departure from Venice was as magical as one could imagine. All were on deck of the Corinthian to bid La Serenissima farewell as the sun set on the city, the harbor looking not much different from the way Canaletto painted it in mid-18th century.

BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Leaving Venice

Saturday, June 21: Rab Island, Croatia

By the next morning we had reached our first stop, the Croatian island and city of Rab, just off the Dalmatian coast in the Adriatic Sea. Named in ancient times after the dark pine forests that once grew there, the island was, like many in the region, ruled by Illyrians, Romans, Byzantines, Hungarians, Venetians, French, Hapsburgs, Italians, and Yugoslavians until Croatia became independent in 1991. The town's rich cultural history and its beautiful beaches make it a popular tourist destination today, and Rab city's charming squares and winding streets make it a fun place to explore.

BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Rab Square
BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Rab Alley

The Corinthian holds roughly a hundred passengers only, making its voyages intimate and luxurious experiences. In addition, the ship's small size allows it to dock, quite often, as close to town as possible. In some locations, such as Rab, the Corinthian was hardly out of view from any part of town.

BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Ship in Rab

With the Corinthian docked so conveniently, it was only a few steps to our first concert venue, the tiny (and boomy) Church of the Holy Cross. Joining us for this cruise were the estimable violinists Kristin Lee and Arnaud Sussmann, who gamely doubled on viola, switching mid-concert without hesitation as needed.

BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Rab Concert

Our first program included Dvorak's Sonatina for violin and piano, Op. 100, a charming duo by Shostakovich for 2 violins and piano, and the Beethoven Piano Quartet. The morning concert got our public obligations done by lunchtime and we walked quickly back to the Corinthian for lunch on the deck during our departure for Split, a long journey that would put us into port at 7am the following morning.

BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Walk to Ship

The leisurely sail took us through myriad beautiful passageways between the islands, many uninhabited, in this area of the Adriatic. There have been many true feasts-for-the-eyes to be had off the deck of our cabin, a perfect place for relaxing happy hours.

BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Islands
BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Happy Hour

Sunday, June 22: Split, Croatia

Split is the Croatia's largest coastal city and is famous for the spectacular remains of the palace of the Roman emperor Diocletian. In addition, Split boasts a spectacular port and a city brimming with shops, restaurants and seemingly endless glamorous people.

BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Split Piazza


The morning tour included the villa of Croatia's most famous sculptor Ivan Mestrovic (1883-1962), widely regarded as one of the greatest sculptors in history and the first living artist to have a solo show at New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art. Influenced by the Art Nouveau and Cubism movements, he created many monuments and religious works, both in stone and wood. His work, truly stunning to behold in person, can be viewed at his lavish villa overlooking the coast (which is now preserved as his gallery).

BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Mestrovic

The central area of Split is dominated by the remains of the palace of the Roman emperor Diocletion (264-305 A.D.), and the thriving city is built virtually into what is left of the Roman emperor's retirement home, where he lived out his last years having become the only Roman emperor to ever abdicate. Essentially, Diocletian's palace became the core of Split. The underground tunnels and dungeons are tourist favorites.

BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Diocletian

Our concert took place in the Split Theater, the city's premiere concert hall, but instead of the main hall we used the lobby, which was not only the perfect size for our ensemble but as architecturally elegant and as acoustically perfect as any concert hall I can recall. Our program consisted of a Mozart violin and viola duo followed by Smetana's heart-rending Piano Trio, written in the aftermath of the death of his second daughter.

BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Split Concert

Forsaking the bicycle tour in the afternoon, the musicians once again practiced and rehearsed, but had a special party to look forward to in the late afternoon: A joint reception for travelers from both Music@Menlo and the Chamber Music Society, hosted by me and Wu Han, plus Edward Sweeney and Suzanne Davidson.

BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Groups Party

A sumptuous grilled sea bass dinner in town -

BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Sea Bass

- was followed by a blissful short walk to the harbor, the musicians accompanied by Music@Menlo executive director Edward Sweeney. There is little more comforting on tour than seeing your floating home glittering in the distance.

BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Split Harbor with Corinthian
BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Corinthian in Split

Monday, June 23: Hvar

A crystal clear morning welcomed us to the dock near the ancient town of Stari Grad, on the island of Hvar (pronounced "Var").

BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Ship in Stari Grad

The Croatian island of Hvar (the name derived from its original Greek name Pharos) is one of the most fascinating places I have ever visited. To begin, the island is 42 miles long and only 8 miles at its widest.

BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Hvar Map

The morning tour proved impossible to resist (we musicians frequently needed to decline sightseeing opportunities in order to prepare for our concerts) as we were told that our buses would take the scenic route, traversing the top of the east-west limestone ridge, surrounded by fields of lavender, on the way to the picturesque Hvar Town on the island's eastern tip. The quick ascent soon revealed breathtaking views.

BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Hvar View

While Hvar's history is as interesting and complex as many of its neighbors, I personally found the island's geography and botanical features, plus the remains of human activities, captivating.

The first unusual feature of the hillsides is the presence of numerous, wide stone walls.

BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Stone Walls

Hvar island has no surface water: no lakes, ponds or streams, and very little fresh water coming from springs or wells. Therefore the island's inhabitants depend heavily on rainwater, which soaks quickly into crevices in the dry ground, and there is little of it as the island boasts claims to be "the sunniest place in Europe" with over 300 clear days per year. The stone walls, now on mostly-abandoned farm land, were built to contain the flow of rainwater within growing areas, stem erosion, and keep herds of animals separated.

The island has interesting vegetation, with bare patches and scrub at higher altitudes, and lavender fields and pine trees lower down. Hvar is known as "The Island of Lavender" which is used to produce soaps and other aromatic products.

BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Lavender

Although we didn't have a chance to try any, there is a busy wine-making industry on Hvar, famous for both its reds and whites.

On our ascent we stopped at an ancient lime kiln. These were built to melt the mountains' ubiquitous lime rocks into quicklime, used for plaster, cement, pigment, pavement material, agriculture and other uses.

BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Lime Kiln

The early kilns were built with small doors at the bottom through which the lime stones were placed and air flowed to fuel the fire. The fire heated the built-up layers of lime above it, which gradually dropped to the floor and cooled. (The kilns were small, as one too big would collapse as its insides burned away). The whole process, from loading the lime to its eventual removal, took about a week's time.

BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Yugo

During our stop at the kiln, the positioning of gigantic buses on the side of the narrow road was challenged by a rugged-looking gentleman at the wheel of a Yugo, a now-extinct, hand-made automobile that was first produced by the Yugoslav/Serbian company Zastava in 1978. Famous for its unreliability, it became a novelty/fad and was imported by an entrepreneur between 1985 and 1991, who sold Americans 141,511 of what was voted one of the 50 worst cars of all time. They were widely used in Slovenia, Serbia, Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, and many can still be seen there, jerry-rigged to continue running, as original parts are long unavailable. Cars like these are often found on Hvar island, as many of the residents use Hvar as a summer home or commute for work, and find it easier to have second cars and trucks on the island.

Descending into thick forests dotted with limestone boulders, we soon reached the city of Hvar, the largest on the island. Hvar city was a center for trade and culture during centuries of Venetian rule, and the Venetian lion can be seen still on the fortress which dates from the 13th century. The ancient walls survive as do many historic buildings and churches.

BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Hvar Fortress

The views of the harbor from the fortress are breathtaking.

BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Hvar Port View

The town of Hvar is a place I could have stayed for months.

BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Hvar Square
BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Hvar Harbor
BWW Blog: David Finckel, Artistic Director of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center - An Adriatic Music Cruise
Hvar Market

The Franciscan Monastery at the far end of the harbor hosts a chamber music festival in its courtyard, steps from the beach.



About Author

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Guest Blogger: David Finckel Cellist?David Finckel?s multifaceted career as concert performer, recording artist, educator, arts administrator, and cultural entrepreneur places him in the ranks of today?s most influential classical musicians. In recognition of artistic excellence and achievement in the arts, David Finckel and his long time recital partner, pianist Wu Han, were named Musical America?s 2012 Musicians of the Year.

He has been hailed as a ?world class soloist? (Denver Post) and ?one of the top ten, if not top five, cellists in the world today? (Nordwest Zeitung, Germany). In high demand as a chamber musician, David Finckel appears in over one hundred concerts each season in recital with pianist Wu Han at the most prestigious venues and concert series across the United States and around the world. His activities as a concerto soloist include performances and recordings of the Dvor?k Concerto, John Harbison Concerto, and Augusta Read Thomas?s?Ritual Incantations.

In addition to his distinction as one of classical music?s most accomplished performers, David Finckel has established a reputation for his dynamic and innovative approach to the recording studio. In 1997, David Finckel and Wu Han launched ArtistLed, classical music?s first musician-directed and Internet-based recording company, whose catalogue of sixteen albums has won widespread critical acclaim. David Finckel?s recording for the ArtistLed label of the Rachmaninov, Shostakovich, and Prokofiev sonatas received?BBC Music Magazine?s coveted ?Editor?s Choice? award. David Finckel and Wu Han have served as Artistic Directors of The Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center since 2004. They are also the founders and Artistic Directors of Music@Menlo, a chamber music festival and institute in Silicon Valley that has garnered international acclaim, now celebrating its eleventh season. In 2011, David Finckel and Wu Han were named Artistic Directors of Chamber Music Today, an annual festival held at the Seoul Arts Center in Korea.

David Finckel has achieved universal renown for his passionate commitment to nurturing the careers of countless young artists through a wide array of education initiatives. For many years, he taught alongside the late Isaac Stern at Carnegie Hall and the Jerusalem Music Center. Under the auspices of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center, David Finckel and Wu Han established the LG Chamber Music School, which provides workshops for young artists in Korea. In 2012, David Finckel was named honoree and Artistic Director of the Mendelssohn Fellowship, a program established to identify young Korean musicians and promote chamber music in South Korea.


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