Visiting Peru

[ArtMan]

Next year, I will be doing a 10 day tour of Peru. I will be visiting Lima, Cusco, Sacred Valley, Machu Picchu and Puno. The trip will also include visiting smaller cities/villages. Anyone travel here and have suggestions? I am most concerned about the altitude sickness that comes with visiting extreme heights. It will be the first trip that I may consider taking out travel insurance. I have visited the Swiss Alps with no problems. But is that different? To me, that is a higher altitude. Thanks in advance.

[henrikegerman]

You will have an amazing time. Cusco is one of the most enjoyable little cities in the world and has one of the world's great cathedrals. The Cusqueno school of painting which fills the cathedral is extraordinary. The people are amazing. The food is, as one would guess, extraordinary and generously served. Machu is the kind of place you think will never live up to one's expectations and surpasses them. Puno is fine, nothing much to write home about but getting there is fun - through the Altiplano and the little villages and ruins - anyway, you go to Puno to see the Lake, which is gorgeous. Shopping is great fun particularly if, unlike me, you enjoy bargaining - still this is a much lower key bargaining culture than other parts of the world (Morocco for example).

You will likely go to Puno and Titicaca at the end of the trip, advisable since the altitude there is highest. You may want to get a prescription for altitude sickness relief from your doctor, just in case you need it. It affects people very differently. Travel insurance may be worthwhile. Not sure how telling your experience in the Alps might be. I believe, though, that the altitude in the Andes is much higher than in the Alps.

Many find that the coca tea and chewing the leaves - no it's not like doing blow! - is all that they need. And that you find everywhere.

[finebydesign]

Most Americans HATE Lima. I loved it (as a gay man)! Lots of clubs and fun/safe night life. Some of the hotels are really nice.

Cuzco and Machu Piccu are really great but be advised there are tons of tourists.

I didn't get the altitude meds but I probably should have gotten them. My tour was side-lined by an avalanche* so I was flying all over the place allowing very little time for acclimation. The coco tea was soothing, but I had serious trouble breathing one night I almost went to the hospital.

*Get the insurance! There are mudslides, avalanches frequently the Cusco region. There are also earthquakes in Lima with less frequency. My tour company was able to work with the conditions to make sure I had a good time.

[Someone in a Tree2]

Thanks Henrik--your advice couldn't be more timely since my honey and I plus 2 friends have just booked OUR trip to Peru (and Buenos Aires and Rio) for this Christmas/ New Years! We've allotted 2 days in Agua Calientes to see Machu Picchu (hopefully at sunset) on whichever day has less rain/ fog.

We're concerned about being in Cusco for the 2 days over Christmas-- we thought it would be thrilling to witness at least one true Christmas Mass experience in that gorgeous cathedral, but worry sites like the cathedrals or the ruins at Sachsyhauman may be closed to tourists then.

Any advice for what not to miss there or in Lima would be much appreciated from one whose taste in theater show closely matches my own.

[henrikegerman]

Thanks, Someone. I neither love nor hate Lima. It's a huge city with great food but I've spent very little time there. The alta cocina scene is really, er, cooking in Lima with famous spots like Astrid y Gaston and La Mar - not that one has to go the fancy route to eat very well anywhere in Peru.

Cusco is great for walking and exploring both in town and its environs. There are some fun hikes nearby. I was recovering from a recent injury when I was there so didn't hike much or do any riding; but my friends took a horseback ride from town into a nearby village and loved it (I'll try to find out more about that for you). San Blas is a very cool neighborhood with great cafes, bars and restaurants. There are great markets. I think it would be great to be there at Christmas; am not sure about how difficult it would be to attend Xmas mass but I'd have the same concerns you do. Not sure if Sacsayhuaman closes for the holidays but would think guidebooks or visitperu.com could help you.

Pisac is nearby and the ruins and town are very nice. It might be worth hiring a driver to take you there; once you get out of town you will be amazed by the sites you will see, both natural and folkloric. I've heard Olantuytambo (spelling?) is also worthwhile. But there are many places to explore near Cusco and the Valley.

Aguas Calientes is a fun, hokey town; it's been quite a while since I was there, but we stayed in a nice, funky place called as I recall - if it's still there - {Something] Slim's.

[finebydesign]

Oh I also did a rain forest cabin that was really nice as well. It was quite a trek, but the green cabins were amazing and we saw so much. Those areas are quite remote.

* I also agree Lima has incredible food. From the fancy stuff down to the chaufa, I would say the best place to eat in Peru is Lima. Cusco was so-so food-wise for me but you're doing the Inca trail some of the camping food is really fantastic. The Rain Forest food was awesome because it was all fresh.

[ArtMan]

Thank you all for your responses. Henrikegerman, after I wrote that about the Alps, I realized, where I was, was a lot lower than the mountain peaks. Per your responses, I am going to take out the travel insurance. I originally was doing this due to sickness and possible rail strikes. It did not occur to me for all their possible natural disasters. Unfortunately, our tour is not going to Pisac, but I booked an optional tour that does go to Olantuytambo. You are correct that Puno and the Lake is at the end of the trip. Then we fly back to Lima for one night. Someone in a Tree2, I am envious of you going to Brazil and Argentina. They are on my list, but are quite expensive for what you get, tour wise. . The visas alone were well over $500...correct? If you remember, after your trip, let me know how it was.

[Someone in a Tree2]

^ Yikes you sacred me re the visas! Happily, we have loads of time so don't have to pay any rush fees. And only Brazil requires visas. So just $210 per person for the visa.

On the other hand, stays in Rio over New Years are CRAZY EXPENSIVE!!! We're saving a bit by renting an apartment near Ipanema Beach for the 4 of us. Most airbnb type places add a Reveillon (New Years) charge of between 5 and 15,000 and have 10-day minimum stays. Oy gevalt!

[ArtMan]

Someone in a Tree2, check on this. Unless things have changed in the last two years, a fee is required for both countries. Brazil requires a visa. Argentina, requires an entrance fee in advance. They do not call it a visa. I think the fees involved in processing made the total amount over $500. If you find this to be changed then visiting the two countries will indeed move up on my list. Two years ago, a 10 day trip with air and entry requirements were totaling over $5,000 and that didn't include optional tours and food. So at that time, I nixed it. Good luck on what you find. I hope it has changed since I last inquired.

[Someone in a Tree2]

^ Wow, this is exactly why I love this board. Thanks so much for that heads up, Art Man. Sure enough, you're right-- Argentina now charges a $160 entrance fee, that needs to be paid online before arrival.

Another disaster averted by following the BWW boards!

[madbrian]

Besides food, does Lima offer enough else to warrant a vacation there without other locations in Peru? Would be looking for art, theater, music, etc. Thanks.

[henrikegerman]

I don't know Lima all that well but I'm sure there's a great deal worthwhile to culturally explore there. Personally, to go to Lima and not see other places in Peru wouldn't be my idea of a great vacation. Then again, I almost always venture outside of a very urban destination when I travel, even when that urban destination is one of my favorite cities.


exploringlimaculture

[finebydesign]

As I mentioned, I LOVED the night life in Lima. I even saw a drag show there. There is terrific art and what a theatre scene! I did not enjoy the National museum (I think that is what it was) anyway it left a lot to be desired. I would highly recommend watching some documentaries and picking up a book if you want up-to-date historical information. A lot of the guides are working with dated inaccurate information.

There are however incredible digs going on all over the place. If you know any archaeologists, it can be a real treat.

Peru is quite a remarkable place because there are archaeological sites all over the place. The locals homes are filled with pottery and found pieces. What a surprise to walk into someone's courtyard and see an Inca stone!

The city can be dangerous so make sure you let your hotel take good care of you. Again make sure you get out and sample some of the incredible cuisine. The fusion of cultures there is really wonderful.